Lexicon

The terms used in perfume and beauty jargon are not always self-explanatory or widely known. With this lexicon, we would like to offer you the opportunity to find out about important terms on the subject. If the term you are looking for is not included in the list, please visit us again at a later date. We will expand our lexicon over time. Or send us an e-mail to shop@daspparfum-beauty.de and tell us the terms for which you would like an explanation. We will be happy to explain the term or abbreviation to you and add the explanation to our lexicon.

DASPARFUM & Beauty hopes you enjoy browsing and reading.

 

AHA

AHA - the abbreviation for alpha hydroxy acid - is increasingly used in anti-ageing skincare. The active ingredient strengthens the skin barrier, binds moisture and ensures an even and fresh complexion. However, products with AHA are also recommended for young skin that is prone to blemishes. The acids dissolve dead skin cells and thus prevent blackheads and spots.

 

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is considered a miracle cure for well-moisturized and supple skin. The watery gel, which is extracted from the inside of the aloe vera leaves, is primarily found in body care products. However, there are also cosmetics and facial care products that contain aloe vera. The active ingredient has a cooling and refreshing effect immediately after application. In addition, aloe vera accelerates cell regeneration, has an anti-inflammatory effect and stimulates collagen production.

 

Ambroxan

Ambrox or ambroxan is produced when ambergris reacts with atmospheric oxygen. Ambergris, which comes from the intestines of whales, is one of the noblest animal fragrances with ambroxan, which is otherwise only found in cistus, mourning cypress, clary sage oil or tobacco absolute. Thanks to its pure and clean, woody scent, slightly reminiscent of musk and amber, ambroxan is often used as a fragrance base.

 

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are considered an all-round active ingredient in skin care. The primary task of these ingredients is to protect the cells from free radicals and thus protect the skin from inflammation and premature ageing. Antioxidants include vitamin A (retinol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin E (tocopherol).

 

Azulene

Azulene is a crystalline hydrocarbon compound whose name is derived from "azure" due to its blue color. Azulene is obtained as an oil during the steam distillation of certain plants such as chamomile flowers, vetiver and geraniums. In skin care, azulene helps against skin impurities due to its anti-inflammatory and healing effect and is suitable for sensitive skin and allergy sufferers as the active ingredient is non-irritating.

 

BHA

BHA - the abbreviation for beta hydroxy acid - has an exfoliating effect and is particularly recommended as an active ingredient for oily or acne-prone skin. Cosmetic products with BHA have an anti-inflammatory effect, penetrate the pores and reduce impurities and redness in the deeper layers of the skin.

 

Calendula

In the field of skin care, calendula, also known as marigold extract, is highly valued for its wound-healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. Wounds and scars heal better thanks to calendula and blood circulation is also promoted, making the skin more supple and more resistant to skin irritations. Care products containing calendula are particularly recommended for sensitive skin as they have a soothing effect.

 

Clean Beauty

Clean beauty is not a protected term in the beauty industry. Brands that advertise their products as Clean Beauty indicate that they do not use controversial ingredients such as silicones, parabens, sulphates, preservatives and mineral oils in the formulation of their products. Clean cosmetics can therefore be understood as skincare that is "free from" harmful ingredients. These can have a hormonal effect and cause skin irritation and intolerances. Clean Beauty products are therefore particularly suitable for sensitive skin types, as only selected ingredients are used in production that are not suspected of having an effect on the body. Nevertheless, clean beauty should not be confused with vegan care or natural cosmetics. Synthetic ingredients can also be produced sustainably and be completely harmless to health.

 

Fragrances

In the beauty sector, fragrances are primarily used in perfume production. Fragrances are usually created synthetically, but they can also be extracted from plants (e.g. essential oils) or be of animal origin (e.g. musk). Fragrances are also often found in cosmetics to give products a pleasant smell.

 

Eau de Cologne

An eau de cologne has a fragrance content of approx. 3-5% and is therefore a very light, less intense variant. Like the eau de toilette, the eau de cologne can also be used several times a day to refresh the fragrance.

 

Eau de Parfum

A high-quality perfume is characterized by its fragrance intensity. The higher the concentration of the fragrance oil, the more intense and long-lasting the fragrance. Eau de Parfums have a very high proportion of fragrances, usually around 10-14%.

 

Eau de toilette

The concentration of fragrance oils in eau de toilette is lower than in eau de parfum and is around 6-9%. The fragrance is therefore less intense and can be applied generously.

 

EcoSun Complex

The EcoSun Complex is an antioxidant specially developed and patented by the Soleil Toujors brand, their secret weapon that they use in all their products. The complex counteracts the aggressive effects of free radicals and the resulting oxidative stress. The skin is thus nourished and protected against photo-ageing. The beneficial properties of red algae protect the skin from harmful environmental influences, moisturize it and give it a fresh complexion. Ascorbyl palmitate provides a rich vitamin C boost, which ensures an even complexion and the formation of antioxidants. Vitamin E, one of the most important antioxidants, protects the skin from the sun's ultraviolet rays and environmental pollution. It also supports the regulation of vitamin A, which is just as essential for a healthy complexion. Bisabol rounds off the formulation. Chamomile extracts soothe and moisturize the skin.

 

Elastin

Together with collagen, elastin is one of the most important proteins for connective tissue in the body. While collagen ensures the firmness of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity and flexibility. As we age, the production of this structural protein decreases, leading to sagging and loose skin. To stop this process and restore the skin's elasticity, we recommend anti-ageing skincare products that are enriched with elastin and collagen.

 

Enzymes

Enzymes are the body's own substances that control the metabolism and are contained in all body cells. In the beauty sector, enzymes are primarily used in masks and peelings to treat blemished skin and refine the skin's appearance.

 

Extrait de Parfum

An extrait de parfum is the most concentrated version of an eau de parfum due to its very high fragrance oil content of approx. 30-40%. The purest fragrances are enriched in 96% alcohol and give off a very intense, long-lasting sillage.

 

"François Coty Award

François Coty was a newspaper publisher, industrialist and French perfumer who was regarded as the founder of modern perfumery. He learned his trade in a Parisian pharmacy and a perfume factory in Grasse. He became famous with his first perfume La Rose Jacquerminot. He was considered the founder of modern perfumery thanks to his newly discovered synthetic products. New extraction techniques enabled him to distil natural fragrances, which he combined with synthetic ones. This is how the perfume Absolue was created. In memory of his legacy to the art of perfumery, a prize bearing his name is now awarded to the greatest perfume artists, including Francis Kurkdjian.

 

Holistic care

The concept of holistic care, also known as holism, does not focus solely on combating the symptoms, but addresses the cause of the problem. This care concept aims to achieve holistic healing, i.e. regeneration of body and mind in equal measure. In the luxury care segment, you will find soothing spa products that turn your skincare routine into a wellness experience and heal, relax and radiate body and mind.

 

Skin type

A general distinction is made between normal, dry, oily and combination skin. Pore size, feelings of tightness, a tendency to blemishes and sebum production can indicate the corresponding skin type. Determining your own skin type is essential for the right skincare routine and selecting the right skincare products. If it is difficult to assess your skin type, it makes sense to have it determined by a beautician or dermatologist.

 

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a component of human connective tissue. The body's own active ingredient is able to bind large quantities of water. In the cosmetics sector, hyaluronic acid is mainly used in facial care products (e.g. creams and serums) to have a plumping effect and ensure a plump complexion. At the same time, products containing hyaluronic acid are intended to prevent skin dehydration and wrinkles.

 

Hydroxycitronellal

Hydroxycitronellal is often used as a fragrance molecule in perfume oils or aromas. It occurs naturally in some essential oils or can be obtained synthetically by hydrating citronellal. The delicate floral scent of the molecule is reminiscent of lily of the valley, lily, linden and lilac and has an extraordinary adhesive power. The fragrance is particularly suitable for perfume production thanks to its fixing properties and is appreciated for its floral fragrance notes.

 

Jade

As a facial roller, the gemstone jade has a relaxing effect on the skin and is said to bring balance and inner peace to the user. The beautiful green stone also reduces inflammation and swelling and has a positive effect on skin impurities and the body's own collagen formation. A soothing massage for the skin, a relaxing excursion for the soul.

 

Cold pressing process

Natural oils can be obtained from plants either by extraction or pressing. However, it is important that the pressing process is carried out cold. Otherwise, the important ingredients of the plant are destroyed and they can no longer develop their effect in the oil. Cold-pressed oils are particularly popular in natural cosmetics. With their natural protective function and rich supply of nutrients, they are the ideal addition to any care product for the face, body and hair.

 

Collagen

Collagen is a very important structural protein for the body, which is responsible for strengthening the connective tissue and also binds moisture. The collagen fibers consist of amino acid chains that form a scaffold and thus give the skin its elasticity. At up to 30%, collagen is the most abundant protein in the body (skin, ligaments, tendons, bones, cartilage, skeletal muscles). However, collagen production decreases with age, leading to wrinkles and dry skin. Facial care with collagen provides the skin with sufficient moisture, replenishes the collagen reservoir and helps to achieve youthful, plump skin.

 

Kukui nut oil

Kukui nut oil is the oil of the Hawaiian national tree, the kukui nut tree, and is extracted from its seeds. The soothing and protective properties of the oil are particularly beneficial for skin and hair. Particularly rich in antioxidants and linolenic acid, it has a slight natural sun protection factor. The soothing oil counteracts skin irritation caused by sunbathing and also has a restorative effect and ensures an even complexion.

 

Lymphatic drainage

The lymphatic system is our body's own filter system, which filters out all substances such as water, fats and proteins that should not remain in the tissue. Lymphatic drainage involves massaging the face with facial rollers along the lymphatic channels to drain accumulated lymph fluid. This massage with very light pressure and the cooling of the gemstone facial rollers reduce swelling and accelerate wound healing. If the massage is performed with a heated gemstone face roller, the pores open up so that care products and serums can be worked in even better. If it is used cool, the face benefits from a decongestant and anti-inflammatory effect and the skin texture becomes increasingly refined. To illustrate this, we have selected this video in which the use of a face roller from YÙ BEAUTY is demonstrated by the founder, Dr. Anna Mandozzi herself*:

 

Mineral oil

Mineral oil is extracted from filtered petroleum and is used in cosmetics in the form of certain hydrocarbons. Also known as kerosenes or Vaseline in care products, mineral oils make cosmetic products long-lasting and are also easy to process. As substances foreign to the skin, mineral oils penetrate the uppermost layers of the skin, where they make the skin feel pleasantly soft in the short term. In the long term, however, they are not recommended for cosmetic products as they also seal the skin and hinder rather than support its natural functioning. Vegetable oils, such as those found in Clean Beauty, are a better alternative for the skin.

 

Molecular fragrance

Molecular fragrances (or molecular scents) consist of up to six different molecules. In contrast to classic perfumes, which consist of a top, heart and base note, all ingredients develop simultaneously in molecular fragrances. The fragrances only reveal their true character when they interact with the skin. In contrast to classic perfumes, which overlay the body's own scent, this is deliberately emphasized when using molecular fragrance creations. Due to the individual combination with the wearer, the products unfold very differently for everyone, which is why molecular fragrances are considered the most individual form of perfuming and are also referred to as "fragrance haute couture".

 

Oud

Oud is a very valuable fragrance oil extracted from the resin of the eagle tree. The fragrance, which originally comes from the Orient, can be found in men's, women's and unisex perfumes. As it is a very expensive ingredient, oud is only used in small quantities. Incidentally, oud fragrances are said to have an aphrodisiac effect.

 

Parabens

Parabens are synthetic preservatives used to combat germs and bacteria in cosmetics and have been in use for a long time. As they are said to have a possible hormonal effect (butylparaben and propylparaben), they have fallen into disrepute in the beauty industry. However, the cosmetics regulations are so strict that guidelines specify the maximum limits for the use of parabens, meaning that they are not harmful to health in products manufactured in Germany. Products with a "clean beauty" promise deliberately avoid the use of controversial ingredients and use natural alternatives such as sustainable alcohols or essential oils.

 

Perfume

A perfume (or extrait) is the highest quality and most expensive version of a fragrance. At 15-30%, the concentration of fragrance oils in a perfume is significantly higher than in the other variants (e.g. eau de parfum, eau de toilette), which results in a high fragrance intensity.

 

Peeling

Exfoliation is an essential step in the regular skincare routine. They remove dead skin cells and excess sebum, stimulate blood circulation and thus ensure a fresh complexion. Peelings are an effective remedy for blackheads, clogged pores and whiteheads. Based on the ingredients, a distinction is made between mechanical and chemical peels as well as fruit acid and enzyme peels.

 

Peptides

Peptides are an important component of our skin. They ensure a firm, wrinkle-free and elastic appearance. Peptides also support the cells in their natural regeneration and strengthen their resistance. Peptides are used as ingredients in anti-ageing skincare in particular with the aim of stimulating collagen formation and strengthening the skin barrier.

 

Plant wax

Plant waxes are obtained by hydrogenating plant oils. During this process, the wax is allowed to cool to room temperature. As a natural, environmentally friendly and renewable alternative to kerosene, candles with vegetable wax are a purely natural product. The light color of vegetable wax, reminiscent of cream, looks very elegant and the natural wax is less susceptible to soot formation.

 

Pheromones

The word pheromone comes from the ancient Greek and means "carrier of excitement". The scent attractant is produced and released by all living creatures and is usually used as a recognition or sexual attractant for non-verbal communication. Pheromones have a very special effect on the hormonal system of other people and can unconsciously influence their behavior.

 

Primer

A primer provides the ideal base for make-up and is applied as part of the skincare routine after skincare. The product can be used for the entire face, but it is also possible to limit the application to certain areas (e.g. eyes or lips). The creamy consistency of the primer gives the make-up a better hold. At the same time, wrinkles and imperfections are concealed for a more even appearance.

 

Retinol

Once applied to the skin, retinol is converted into vitamin A acid and is therefore an antioxidant. The active ingredient is preferred in anti-ageing skincare as it supports collagen formation and stimulates cell renewal. Retinol also visually refines the pores and prevents blemishes and hyperpigmentation. Because the active ingredient makes the skin more sensitive to light, it is primarily used in night care.

 

Rose quartz

The rose quartz face roller gives the skin a real energy boost. As one of the most powerful and popular healing stones, its invigorating effect helps to reduce tension and stress in the face, cools the skin and also has a firming effect. Gives a healthy glow and a positive mindset.

 

Silicones

Silicones are synthetic substances that are mostly found in hair and facial care products. They coat the hair, smooth the skin and give a fresh appearance. However, they also settle in the hair and skin structures, seal the surface and only break down again over time. In the long term, high amounts of silicones can over-nourish the skin and hair and do more harm than good. It could also have hormonal effects that cause irritation and irritation.

 

SPF

The SPF (=Sun Protection Factor) corresponds to the sun protection factor - the higher the SPF, the more intensively the skin is protected from the sun. Products with SPF are used to prevent sunburn, prevent premature skin ageing and avoid pigmentation spots. In the cosmetics industry, an SPF is primarily found in pure sun protection products as well as in day care or make-up.

 

Sulphates

Sulphates are salts obtained from sulphuric acid and are primarily used in cleansing care products. The strong foaming property gives the feeling of particularly good cleansing, as dirt and grease are effectively removed from the skin. However, sulphates attack the natural skin barrier during this process and have a strong drying effect. People with particularly dry or sensitive skin should be careful with chemical-based foaming agents, as they can cause skin irritation and dryness.

 

Synthetic preservatives

Artificially produced preservatives are substances that make skincare products last longer and serve to protect the product from changes caused by light, air and bacteria. However, they can cause skin irritation and contact allergies on sensitive skin, which is why not all consumers like their use. According to the European Commission, certain preservatives are actually useful, but you should be wary of formaldehyde, methyldibromoglutaronitrile and methylisothiazolinones. These are either severely restricted in use or completely banned in the EU. Clean Beauty does not use these controversial ingredients and relies on natural alternatives such as essential oils or alcohol for preservation.

 

System care

System care is a 3-phase care system that was discovered in 1967 by dermatologist Dr. Norman Orentreich. The concept is based on a skincare routine consisting of soap, lotion and toner, all of which contain the same main active ingredient. This allows the active ingredient to work effectively and in a targeted manner for specific skin types and their needs. This routine is supplemented by day and night care as well as extra care units such as face masks, peelings etc.

 

Surfactants

Due to their soluble properties, surfactants remove even stubborn dirt and make-up, which is why they are often an ingredient in soaps. In creams, they serve as emulsifiers to guarantee a pleasantly soft consistency. However, if there are too many surfactants in skincare products, they attack the skin's natural protective barrier and remove its moisture.

 

Vitamin C

Like retinol, vitamin C is an antioxidant. Cosmetic products with vitamin C are particularly recommended for combating sun damage, wrinkles and any skin irritations. Vitamin C is also a highly effective ingredient for reducing pimple marks and pigmentation spots for a more even appearance. It should be noted that the skin reacts more sensitively to UV radiation after the application of vitamin C. It is therefore essential to use additional sun protection when using appropriate products during the day.

 

Vetiver

The sweet grass from tropical Asia is used in perfume production, natural medicine and aromatherapy, among other things. Vetiver essential oil is extracted from the fresh or dried roots, which has a particularly relaxing, balancing and nerve-strengthening effect with its heavy scent of forest and earth. Vetiver has a nourishing and regenerating effect on the skin. The connective tissue in particular benefits from its strengthening effect.

 


* We are not medical professionals and would like to emphasize at this point that we cannot make any medical recommendations. All content on our website is intended as general information about the products we offer and is in no way a substitute for professional advice or diagnosis by a doctor or beautician. If you have any complaints or further questions, please contact your doctor or beautician. We accept no liability if these instructions are not followed.